May 29, 2008: Natchez, MS to St. Francisville, LA - Highway 61 Revisited

Of Bob Dylan's huge library of amazing lyrics, those contained in the songs of his early album 'Highway 61 Revisited' stand out for me. I spent much of today's 60 mile ride down Highway 61 between Natchez, MS and St. Francisville, LA trying to remember the lyrics to the title cut. I was only partially successful. Here they are if you want to check your own recollection: http://www.bobdylan.com/songs/highway61.html

It seems unlikely that this part of this highway 61 (a 4 lane, 65 mph, divided highway through wooded, rolling countryside) was Dylan's inspiration. If you were in a car, it would actually a lovely ride. On a bike, however, there was a big problem -- long sections with no ride-able shoulder. 

Viewing the satellite imagery last night on Google Maps had us concerned about that possibility. The alternative was a hundred mile death-ride through hell (clear skies with temps in the 90's), so we decided to ride out 5 miles to see what the lighter color of the shoulders south of town actually signified. At first we were relieved to find they were just the lighter-colored pavement we had seen from time to time earlier in the trip. After a few more miles, however, the shoulders changed to loose gravel, leaving no option other than sharing the right lane with the cars and trucks that chose to use it. Traffic was blessedly light and ALMOST everyone moved over to the left lane when passing. There were two scary incidents, but we made it to our destination without mishap.

A big problem for me was that I thought I had lost my rear-view mirror while dealing with my flat yesterday. Seventeen miles from our destination we rode back into Louisiana with its lovely wide, smooth shoulders and decided to take a break at the Welcome Center. I glanced in the mirror as I was leaving the rest room and discovered that my rear-view had been attached to my helmet the whole time, but folded up out of my line of sight! Ray saw it but figured I had lost a crucial part. Fred was totally hypnotized by my declaration that it was lost and no longer saw it at all. 

Welcome Center on Hwy 61.

So far St. Francisville seems charming. We had a great lunch of shrimp po' boys and mufaletta. Our accommodations here in an 'extended stay' hotel are more like apartments than hotel rooms. Tomorrow is a rest day. We plan to do a little sightseeing and maybe take the ferry over to the west side of the river to ride a few miles of the Mississippi River Trail bike route.

Seth slept here.

Courtyard in the residence hotel in St. Francisville. In the evenings we sat around and drank with the locals.